1220.8 miles, 2,249,330 steps

Ladies and gentlemen, it’s official. Two weeks ago, I crossed mile 1098.7, the exact midpoint of the trail for this year. “This year?”, you may wonder. Yes, the trail’s advertised length fluctuates. The number itself is calculated by the ATC just before each year, after each club reports any changes to their section’s length. Added switchbacks, rerouted paths, and more accurate measurements are the most common reasons for changes.

With this in mind, the statement “exact midpoint” is misleading. As you can imagine, no magical sensation of being “halfway done” overcame me at a random spot in the wilderness. The transition to the “northern half” occurs across a spectrum. I touched on this in last week’s post, where I discussed critical landmarks like Harpers Ferry and the Mason-Dixon Line. A careful observer of this week’s title picture will note the midpoint monument stands at 1090.5 miles. From a temporal standpoint, 70% of my time out here has passed, having just accomplished week 16 out of a planned 23. Though I’m uncertain about where and when I began to be closer to Katahdin than Springer, it’s quite clear I’m across that threshold.

Of course, that wasn’t the only interesting happening. Far, far from it. From thunderstorms to “danger noodles” to, yes, the first bear sighting, the past several days brought more variety and surprises than typical.

Finally, thank you for your patience as I delayed this post. With nothing else vying for my attention as I close out the trail, you can expect a return to our regular programming schedule.

Day 78: Sunday, May 5

PA 16 to Deer Lick Shelters – 2.1 miles

An usher from mass offered to drive me back to the trailhead. He picked me out as a hiker without my mentioning it (the haggard beard, trail running shoes, and worn athletic fleece must have given it away). I strolled an easy hour to the Deer Lick Shelters, happy to lounge the evening away under a roof, out of the drizzle. As the plural in the name implies, there are two structures on the site. They are fairly small, with an occupancy of 5 apiece. A few other sites in this section take the dual-shelter approach for a reason uncertain to me.

Day 79: Monday, May 6

Deer Lick Shelters to Quarry Gap Shelters – 15.8 miles

The atmosphere today set the tone for the next week-and-a-half. The cloudy sky and humid fog promised rain to come without following through. In fact, the sun came out only briefly during the middle of the week. Additionally, the heaps of boulders on and around Rocky Mountain possessed a bold, rugged beauty. I found myself retrieving my phone every few minutes to capture the most unique boulder fields and rock cliffs.

The Quarry Gap Shelters were clearly pushing for a new standard of backcountry luxury. The compact sleeping areas were themselves joined under a single narrow roof. The “common area” between the two featured sets of checkers and dominoes. Most of the area between the shelters and opposing woods was graveled, bordered with gnome statues and potted flowers. The overcast sky prevented use of the sundial, but I was more than happy to sway on the swing at dinner time. I’ve got to say, these accommodations beat out even the Fontana Hilton.

Day 80: Tuesday, May 7

Quarry Gap Shelters to Campsite near Toms Run – 15.7 miles

Between rising late and attending to some personal matters, I didn’t depart until 11:00 AM. Thus, I was alarmed during my late breakfast to see a rattlesnake sauntering across the gravel in search of prey. Thankfully, I was still chilling in one of the shelters, out of the trajectory of this creepy crawly. Staying put inside, the walls obscured exactly which way the creature disappeared, but when I finally set out, I tread extra carefully for the first few minutes. The “nope rope” was not to be seen, thankfully.

Just two miles in, I bumped into “Bossy Boy” lounging in a folding chair at the back bumper of his tricked out camper van. He explained how he was assisting his wife’s through-hike while his hand was recovering from surgery. While he waits for her to catch up to the van, he makes bracelets from garnet and hemp cord. While I don’t usually wear jewelry, I accepted one as a unique memento of the hike.

I quickened my steps throughout the morning, hoping to recoup lost time. After an hour, this agitated my right hip, reducing my stride to a hobble. Periodic stretching assuaged the tendons, but I knew only a full night’s rest would bring me back up to 100%. Consigned to stop 10 miles short of the day’s target, I set up camp in a clearing just past a gentle stream.

Flashes of light disturbed my sleep around 4:00 AM. Thunder was distant but growing louder. Checking the radar revealed a massive storm to my north (though, oddly, the lightning was definitely south, verified by compass). With a light rain commencing and the delayed thunder putting the storm 15, now 10, miles away, I needed to take emergency action. Because my aluminum trekking poles support my tent and are located close to my head, remaining in the tent was a bad idea. Reluctantly pulling on my raincoat, I placed myself as far as possible from any tree, crouched on the balls of my feet, and covered my ears and eyes. This posture keeps one low yet minimizes ground contact, as well as protects one’s sight and hearing in the event of a close strike.

Even through muffled ears, I detected thunder every few seconds. I estimated that the closest bolt crashed to earth just 5 miles away. Nonetheless, the din gradually faded until it was so soft that counting the thunder delay became impossible. I scurried back into my sleeping bag, hoping to salvage my sleep. The close brush with the elements reminded me of my humble smallness in the universe and of the sure hand of God’s providence.

Day 81: Wednesday, May 8

Campsite near Toms Run to Cumberland Valley – 26.1 miles

The first landmark of note for today was Pine Grove Furnace State Park, named after a massive historic iron furnace located on the site. The general store and museums were not open yet, so I shuffled on through.

The afternoon brought me to the “rock maze”, a half-mile cluster of boulders atop a minor ridge. Frequent arrows marked the twists and turns. Sometimes I walked over the boulders rather than wove between them for an easier route.

By evening I emerged into the Cumberland Valley, a 15-mile section populated by farms and suburban developments. Most of the time, the trail cuts a narrow swath through private lands. The low sun over the grass and wheat made for spectacular pictures.

Around 6:00 PM I walked through Boiling Springs PA, the first trail town in the week. Geese and ducklings splashed around the Children’s Pond. I wound my way to Main Street, where I pulled into the only café that was still open. Not satisfied with the overpriced burrito, I stopped at the gas station for a large bag of potato chips. I don’t endorse junk food, but it’s hard to beat 1200 calories for just $3.50. I hiked well into dark to cover as much of the flat valley as possible, finally stopping at 10:00 PM.

Day 82: Thursday, May 9

Cumberland Valley to Duncannon PA – 20.3 miles

In the Catholic liturgical calendar, this day was Ascension Thursday, a Holy Day of Obligation. This may be news to many of the Catholic readers, as most bishops in the US commute the feast to Sunday. But this was not the case in Pennsylvania, and so sets the scene.

Thankfully, I’d scoped out a church in Duncannon, the second trail town for the week, which offered mass at 6:30 PM. Thus, I was rushing today and the day before to get as many miles as possible under my feet. I rose out of the Cumberland Valley by lunch time, ascending just under 1,000 feet onto a ridge. The afternoon was a rushing/stumbling over the rocks to give myself as much time as possible to reach the church.

Arriving in-town around 5:15 and reaching the church 30 minutes later, I was relieved to have ample time to wash up a bit and pray quietly before mass. During the ceremony, thanksgiving dominated my heart that a church had been provided to me on the day I needed it most.

Afterwards, I got to chatting with the priest. He brought over Steve, a trail angel who resides near the downtown area. Steve offered to let me camp out on his back deck. My original plan was to put down an extra 4 miles to the nearest shelter, but Steve’s kindness would let me grab a meal and keep dry from the impending showers. He drove me to his abode. Once I was settled, I explained that I wanted to walk a few minutes to the pizza joint and would be back in an hour or so. He offered me the keys to his hybrid to drive downtown, on account of the rain. Taken aback by his unexpected trust and persistent offer, I got behind the wheel for the first time in two months (I borrowed a friend’s car back at Virginia Tech) and cruised down to the only restaurant still open at 8:15 PM. I went for a large 0-topping, but found myself unable to finish the last quarter of the pie, which I took as a validation of my trail diet.

Back at Steve’s he invited me into his home to get a shower, and afterwards guided me through some family photos. I should mention he has a pool in his backyard, which hikers will often take advantage of in the summer months. As I settled down to sleep, I flipped through his photo album of all the travelers that had stopped through for full-on pool parties or simply an awning to camp under.

Day 83: Friday, May 10

Duncannon PA to Kinter View – 13.7 miles

Though Steve and I chatted as I made breakfast, he was soon off to daily mass and to bring communion to several home bound parishioners in the area. Assembling my pack and heading back towards downtown, I pondered the immense generosity that Steve offered. Clearly, this man seeks to live out Matthew 25, verse 31 and on (the sheep and the goats).

Pyro was ahead of me this whole week, but chose to zero in town. We’ve exchanged numbers at this point, and so agreed to meet up at the breakfast place. We were able to catch up, where I shared the tales of Tuesday night’s thunderstorms and my unexpected adventures with Steve. As we parted ways, I had a feeling it will be some time before we meet again, since I was pulling ahead but would soon fall behind. But we seem to keep bumping into each other despite the odds, and deep down I have hope we’ll reconnect before Katahdin.

Continuing from last night, it was a drizzly and gusty day. I equipped all layers that I hadn’t sent home to stave off the cold, especially in the valley where trees could not hinder the winds.

The terrain out of Duncannon made the day extra penitential. Four solid miles of boulders and rock ledges, the slickness from the moisture requiring extra time to negotiate. In fact, I’d like to address the frequent portrayal of this state that gives it the nickname “Rocksylvania”. Many former through-hikers love to complain about the trail being littered with stones that poke your soles and stub your toes on a constant basis. I won’t discredit this sentiment entirely, as there is certainly an elevated degree of stoniness here. But it’s far from constant. For every rocky mile, I’d estimate 10 that are perfectly clear. Yes, it’s bad at times, but even the trail north of Duncannon calms down once you pass the first shelter. On top of that, PA features light elevation change. It’s a milder version of the Southwest Virginia ridge walking: less elevation change, longer segments between gaps, and much flatter ridges. Honestly, I like Pennsylvania a lot. I’ll happily stumble through occasional rubble if it means I can get away with no more than 500 ft of climb over a 25 mile day.

Day 84: Saturday, May 11

Kinter View to Clark’s Creek – 4.0 miles

My former roomate, Tiernan, lives in Lancaster PA. When he learned I was just an hour north, he and his family kindly offered to have me stay for the weekend. I was doubly happy to meet with an old friend and avoid the meager services offered in Lickdale, my next planned stop. Furthermore, as my friend’s wedding approached, there was much to attend to as best man (including nailing down that pesky speech). I realized that I couldn’t fulfill my obligation as a groomsman while focusing on hitting big miles. I scaled back my planned distance for the day and the week leading to the wedding.

Tiernan’s blue minivan rolled into our meetup point mid-afternoon, and we were off to Lancaster. After accomplishing my resupply shopping, we drove to his house for a wonderful spaghetti dinner prepared by his family. In the evening, we visited Lititz Park to stroll and chat. Tiernan was eager to acquaint me with the beautiful landscaping and charming downtown area.

Day 85: Sunday, May 12

Lancaster PA, Clark’s Creek

After breakfast with Tiernan’s family, we made our way to Lancaster proper. It was a fun and happening place, with all the development and bustle proper to a city without an imposing size. The church we attended, St. Mary’s, was one of the best I’ve seen on the whole trail, both architecturally and liturgically. Afterwards, we made our way to a barber shop to get cleaned up for the wedding (this explains the loss of my mountain man beard in the photos).

Not in a rush to return to the AT, we stopped at additional diversions, including a simple hike to a river overlook. We also hit an arcade to play – few rounds of Dance Dance Revolution. Tiernan has a small passion for the game, and besides we had the excuse of getting our moves ready for the wedding. But all too soon, the lights from Tiernan’s blue minivan were fading down the road as I pitched my tent on the banks of the creek.

Day 86: Monday, May 13

Clark’s Creek to PA 72 – 16.0 miles

Not two hours in, I spotted a bear 50 yards away. He was ambling southbound on the trail in a rather nonchalant manner. He was looking up in the trees to the left and the right with a certain carefree air to his step. If he noticed me, it didn’t bother him. I almost felt bad to shout and wave my trekking poles to frighten him away. Without hesitation he dashed east into the woods. I didn’t take a photo on account of his imminent approach to my location, wanting to get out of the situation ASAP. I was relieved the bear lumbered away so quickly. By teaching him to avoid human interaction, he’s less likely to get into human food. Bears get addicted to the sugars in human food, one taste will have them taking more desperate and aggressive measures to seek out another. Eventually it becomes a “problem bear” and usually has to be put down by park rangers or other authorities. A fed bear is a dead bear, so a scared bear is a spared bear.

Early afternoon brought me to an old friend, Cyncity. We hadn’t met since Pearisburg and laughed about the funny hikers and best trail experiences from Virginia. I was surprised to catch up to her, but she explained that she was only doing 10-mile days to recover from an ankle injury. I wasn’t surprised that this January starter wouldn’t lett a setback like an injury end her hike or even keep her off trail. Early winter starts are a special breed.

The day ended by tiptoeing over logs across a flooded valley. Beavers had dammed a creek, which backed up the water and buried the trail. I was sad to see the many dead trees, which had been otherwise healthy if not for the root rot brought about by constant moisture. Nonetheless, it was a stimulating challenge to navigate over floating branches and trunks to keep my feet as dry as possible.

Day 87: Tuesday, May 14

PA 72 to 501 Shelter – 12.8 miles

I’d hoped to do a good 18 miles this day, but I was pretty slow today. I did spend some time practicing the best man speech, but i honestly can’t reckon why I’d only traveled 9 miles by 3:00 PM. In the evening, I met an elderly couple distributing trail magic from their van. The gentleman did a through-hike in 2004, and since retirement they come out every day of the main season to meet hikers and offer Reese’s and Gatorade.

There, I learned that many hikers were stopping at the 501 Shelter (named for its proximity to PA 501). While quite a few miles short of where I wanted to be, I didn’t want to get caught in the rain and resigned to pushing those miles onto tomorrow. I arrived at the shelter just as the big drops began to fall. The structure is fully enclosed by four walls, a particularly handy feature on bad weather like this. I’d say each wall was 20 feet long, providing ample space for hikers to pack into bunk beds or set up on the floor. A caretaker lives in a house a stone’s throw away, offering the hose spigot for water refills.

As I opened the door, the 4 occupants were finishing the final details on a pizza delivery. I had arrived not a moment too late to secure a portion of a large pepperoni pizza. This may sound ridiculous to order food to the middle of the woods, but a handful of shelters are close enough to major roads to make it feasible. If you remember the Partnership Shelter near Marion, that was the first pizza-able location, but I didn’t want to incur a massive delivery fee without anyone to split it with. It came out to $8 for my two slices of pizza, which is rather pricey, but the surreal absurdity of delivering a meal to the backcountry was worth every penny.

Also at the shelter was Fenix, another early-trail acquaintance. He and I finished the Smokies together, but he took a few days off at his home in NC immediately afterward. From him I learned the fates of other hikers, such as Milkman, who made it to Harper’s Ferry but was tempted to quit there.

Day 88: Wednesday, May 15

501 Shelter to Port Clinton PA – 23.7 miles

My means of getting to the wedding was a fellow groomsman, Eric. He would be driving there from New Jersey, and stopping in PA to pick me up was more or less on his way. We agreed on a rendezvous point just south of Port Clinton. Even though I wasn’t expecting him until tomorrow morning, I wanted to get to the area tonight. I put my head down and focused on pounding out the miles, but nonetheless a serendipitous meeting occurred.

Making my way to a small monument, the chatter of a few children reached me. Then a few more. Then 20. As I stepped onto the intersection with a wide trail, I found myself surrounded by 40 middle schoolers. The adult chaperon greeted me and explained this was a summer camp group out for a wilderness excursion. Upon my explanation that I was a through-hiker, he asked me if I wanted to share a bit about the trail with the kiddos. I was more than happy to cover some basic facts, describe my favorite sights, and relate the story of the bear I sighted on Monday. They were pleased with my stories and gave me a round of applause. They also gifted me two cookies and an energy bar.

Port Clinton has to be the smallest Trail Town I can remember, just Main Street with three short side roads. There’s a post office, hotel, church, B&B, BMW motorcycle dealership (beats me, too), and a smattering of private residences. The hotel is also a restaurant, and I managed to slip in soon enough before closing to order a massive chicken parm sub. The Methodist church runs a small hiker pavilion and campground, providing a convenient $10 stay for the night.

Day 89: Thursday, May 16

Port Clinton PA to PA 61 – 0.5 miles

When the diner opened at 7:00 AM, I was at the door, ready to feast. I settled on the red velvet pancakes, topped with cream cheese, chocolate chips, and blueberries (it has fruit, so it must be healthy).

Waiting for Eric in the parking lot of a trailhead, I did more run-throughs of my best man speech. I held my trekking pole like a microphone as I paced over the muddy gravel, proposing a toast to the unresponsive trees. Tough crowd.

The Wedding

Since I’ve been foreshadowing this event throughout most of the blog, it’s only fair I described a bit of the happenings from the weekend.

Once Eric picked me up on Thursday, it was a rush to Virginia. The bachelor party was slated for that evening at a groomsman’s house. The afternoon was a blur of decorating, cooking, and tidying the house. When Brendan arrived, we “captured” him and led him to the living room. There we played a condensed 10-minute version of Muppets Treasure Island (one of his favorite films) with many inside jokes edited in. I contributed a few scenes via the mobile version of iMovie. Afterwards we feasted on one of Brendan’s favorite foods, stir fry. The rest of the evening was a low-key board game night, as he requested.

Fast forwarding over Friday’s rehearsal, the ceremony on Saturday was simply gorgeous. The Christendom College chapel (which is the size of a large church) sported amazing gothic stone and woodwork. The priest was both personable and reverent, with an amusing and thoughtful homily. The bride and groom laugh-cried through most of the proceedings, a glimpse into their overwhelming joy.

A rustic yet sophisticated brewery served as the reception venue. I served as DJ (organizing and pausing the music as needed), thankful for a job that let me break away from the massive crowd when I needed some space. The speech went well, though perfectionist Max saw some room for improvement here and there. After chatting with some of the other guests, I hit the dance floor for about an hour, putting my DDR training to good use. Soon enough, it was time to send off the newly weds in their car, which we had decorated with sticky notes and water-based markers.

Pebbles

New Birds: Eastern Phoebe, Black Vulture, Wild Turkey, Greylag Goose, House Wren, and Indigo Bunting

Songs in my Head: “Carry Me Away” and “No Stoppin’ Us Now” by The Doobie Brothers; “Shive my Timbers” and “Love Power” from Muppets Treasure Island; and Walk of Life by Dire Straights. And, of course, a certain hit by Bon Jovi:

🎶Living on a Prayer🎶,

Maxwell “Oatmeal” Stelmack

P.S. I’m stuck on this particular version (try not to look at the title, just let it play): https://youtu.be/qN1Pzz9-TX4?si=Of6e-s9UYbMmjm7H