1297.1 miles, 2,376,538 steps

Okay, I know, I largely dismissed the “Rocksylvania” nickname last post. And I had every reason to. As I discussed with hikers how PA didn’t quite match its geologic reputation, many would rebut with “Oh, well it really starts after ‘such and such’ gap”. I consistently found these statements wrong. That is, until Port Clinton, where I picked back up this week. Since I am basically done with PA at this point, I’d assess that the northern third of the state is where the reputation is warranted.

After just a handful of miles in, the frequency of boulders cranked up. The percentage of difficult terrain ratcheted up from 10% to 50%. A path strewn with stones complicates several factors. First, one cannot maintain full stride with risk of slipping or tripping on uneven ground. Second, the footfalls are tough on the tendons, especially the ankles, which are usually cushioned by soft soil. Third, snakes love flat spots to bask in the morning and evening, plus outcroppings to shield themselves from the heat of the day. All of these effects forced me to a cautious crawl for most of the ground covered this week. Even then, I got too close to my liking to some slithery friends before I saw through their camouflage.

But that’s just focusing on the negatives. Once I accepted the fact that I couldn’t help being 40 miles short of my original goal for the weekend, I began to appreciate the landscape more. Something about rock formations always captures my heart. Whether it’s scrambling across a boulder jumble or scaling a cliff, the challenge to find and navigate a safe path is riveting. It’s like a game between me and the mountain. Furthermore, I was fascinated by the reptiles I encountered (once at a safe distance). Growing up in Ohio brought an occasional gardner snake into the back yard, but this week produced 7 encounters across 3 varieties. I made sure to take plenty of pictures (sorry, Mom).

Day 90: Monday, May 20

Port Clinton PA to Windsor Furnace Shelter – 5.4 miles

Having stayed overnight at a friend’s house in northern Virginia, Eric (my friend who kindly chauffeured me all throughout the wedding) drove me back to the trailhead by the late afternoon. On the way, we stopped at the world’s largest Cabela’s in Hamburg, PA. Hundreds of taxidermic specimens were arranged throughout the sprawling complex.

As I made my way to the closest shelter, my mind shifted back into “trail life” mode as I considered the remainder of my journey. The hectic wedding was my last break during the trail— I expect the next time I see family or friends will be after Katahdin. With 8 weeks remaining, already the end of the trail feels within reach.

Honestly, I’m ready to be done. Most of my gear has some hole or breakage from constant use, an image of my own trail-weariness. After time off, it takes a few days to get one’s joints, muscles, and tendons conditioned to the monotonous train of steps, and today I felt the aches and pains acutely. Even when I’m in the sack for 10 hours, quality sleep and restfulness elude me, a reality I attribute to the warmer nights and to which I consign myself to endure.

My mood is pinned between these two observations, the nearing of the finish line and the longing to be there now. But the trick to keeping hope prosperous over despair is the same as it was in February: (1) prayer and (2) focusing on each day as it comes. It’s not about hiking 1000 miles over two months, but 20 miles today.

Day 91: Tuesday, May 21

Windsor Furnace Shelter to Allentown Hiking Club Shelter – 16.5 miles

Today was the introduction to all the elements I described in the summary above, without anything particularly notable about the day per-se. But I will mention The Pinnacle, a great overlook that the trail goes several miles out of its way to incorporate. I sought to appreciate the vista, rarely afforded in the impenetrable “green tunnel” of foliage. There I met Beatrice, a southbound section hiker. She mentioned starting in Vermont, and when I asked how far she intended to go, she replied “wherever two months takes me!”. While I maintain weekly plans so I can attend mass on Sundays and complete the trail before my job starts in August, it was refreshing to meet someone so unconcerned with mileages.

Day 92: Wednesday, May 22

Allentown Hiking Club Shelter to Lehigh Valley – 18.6 miles

At mid-morning, I crossed paths with a trail maintainer, “Moon Dawg”. A Palmerton PA native, he warned me that the next 20-mile chunk is ranked #6 for difficulty along the whole AT. He imparted wisdom about navigating the most harrowing sections, and as the day progressed I was very thankful to have received a head-up on some precarious climbs and descents.

As our conversation wound down, two new through hikers approached. “Munch” attempted in 2021, but had to stop due to serious health complications. His buddy “AARP” was tagging along for a few days as Munch picked up right where he left off. We grouped up for a time, and though my trail legs wanted to go slightly faster than their pace, I was glad to have good conversation. Plus, safety-in-numbers would prove to be indispensable.

Not a half hour later we reached Knife’s Edge, a narrow sheet of rocks slanted at 45 degrees. The uneven surface and sheer drop on either side demanded full control and stability each passing moment. After surveying potential routes for several seconds, I progressed cautiously, not committing to a foot or hand placement until I was fully confident. The descent from the peak was especially trying. I ended up switchbacking side-to-side along the boulder field to pick my way down safely.

But danger did not pass so quickly. Coiled silently amidst the stone and leaves was the most venomous reptile I’ve encountered: a Copperhead Snake. Not equipped with a rattle, these beauties give no warning before striking. The creature occupied the very center of the path, but I picked my way around a tree to give it plenty of space. Since Munch and AARP fell a bit behind during Knife’s Edge, I waited just beyond the snake to warn them. After they approached and I announced the danger, they were profusely thankful, as neither of them have good eyesight. We stuck together in a tighter formation over Bear Rocks and Bake Oven Knob. I was in front to scout, and indeed I spotted a second Copperhead before we stopped at the Bake Oven Knob Shelter for lunch.

Because my filter takes a long time to process water, they both resumed hiking before me. But before departing, they tipped me off that their friend was coming to pick them up in the a few hours and, if I reached them in time, they’d offer me some goodies since I was willing snake bait. Despite the hard going, I did manage to reach the parking lot not two minutes before they planned to leave. Returning back to the trail with an apple and as many Chips Ahoy cookies as I could fit in my hands, I stumbled upon another jackpot. Some trail angel left a cooler with drinks! I washed down the snacks with a carton of refreshing lemonade. Yay for sugar!

With thunderstorms projected for the night and early next morning, camping at low elevation was imperative. I situated my tent on a lovely spot overlooking the Lehigh River and opposing cliffs (I wish I remembered to take a picture).

Day 93: Thursday, May 23

Lehigh Valley to Leroy A. Smith Shelter – 15.7 miles

The storms broke promptly at 8:30 AM. My weather app also displayed a Severe Weather Alert for the area, due to radar indication of hail mixed-in with the lighting. Doing the lightning crouch routine, I patiently observed the pounding rain pass overhead and to the north. In hindsight, I should have gotten up much earlier in the morning and hiked 1.5 miles into town for shelter, but by the time it occurred to me it wouldn’t have done any good.

The way out of the valley presented one of the most technical slopes since Dragon’s Tooth. When there’s a winter bypass trail, you know it’s going to be good. Scaling up the cliffs was less tricky than I expected, but there was a tense moment up top when a rock began to roll out from under me. Walking along the crest of the ridge, I was surrounded by an unusual atmosphere. None of the trees were taller than 5 feet, and the ground featured little topsoil, mostly pebbles. A Ridge Runner I met a few miles later explained the area was undergoing intense reforestation efforts, having been polluted by a nearby zinc mine.

Later in the afternoon brought two Timber Rattlesnakes into view. The larger one was old enough to wield a mature rattle, and briefly sounded it as I picked a course around the reptiles. During lunch I hung my tent fly between to trees to dry out. As I went to pack up the fly, a Rat Snake quietly scaled up a third tree to my right.

Day 94: Friday, May 24

Leroy A. Smith Shelter to Kirkridge Shelter – 13.7 miles

Nothing much to say about the day’s walk, but I did meet some interesting folks at the shelter. A section hiker from New Jersey brought his friends from Hong Kong along for the weekend. He’s done most of the trail and is very connected to the community at large, so we had a pleasant chat exchanging stories about hostels we’ve both stayed at.

Day 95: Saturday, May 25

Kirkridge Shelter to Delaware Water Gap PA – 6.9 miles

Descending down into the gap, I passed at least 50 day-hikers, no doubt making use of the long weekend for a stroll in the woods. Delaware Water Gap is one of the more hiker-centric trail towns, with its identity, culture, and economy firmly entrenched in the hiker lifestyle. My stay this weekend was a church hostel, a furnished basement underneath the Presbyterian church.

But to hit a large grocery store and make it to mass, I had to go to the next town over, East Stroudsburg. Given that a free bus between the towns didn’t run on Sunday, it made the most sense to head over today and attend a vigil mass. I arrived at the stop only to realize the last run was hours ago, even though it was just past noon. I nonetheless stuck to my plan and decided to simply walk, which google maps promised would take 90 minutes. There was a Dairy Queen along the way that “delayed” me somewhat, though I reached East Stroudsburg with enough to grocery shop before heading to the church. After mass, a parishioner and fellow Knight of Columbus named Doc generously gave me  a ride back to DWG.

On the Horizon

Excited to leave PA? Me too. Oh, wait, that’s Jersey up ahead…

Pebbles

New birds: Killdeer. The name might sound funny, but they mean business. This bird stood staunchly in my path, sharply calling and fanning its feathers in an aggressive manner. Once I realized I might be approaching a nest, I gave it a wide berth and it calmed down.

Songs in My Head: “They Don’t Dance Like Carmen No More” by Jimmy Buffet, “Sweet Feelin’” by the Doobie Brothers; and “Green River” & “Cross-Tie Walker” by Creedence Clearwater Revival. I’m surprised it took this long for CCR to come to mind, the swamp rock sound is perfect for the woods.

🎶 Walkin’ down new streets, rocks all around / Neat ole’ sights bring in tumultuous crowds / Though I’m not an old man, I’d probably get sore / ‘Cause we ain’t in Carolina no more 🎶,

Maxwell “Oatmeal” Stelmack