1797.8 miles, 3,280,900 steps

After crossing the state line into New Hampshire, I found it to be more Vermont-y than its neighbor. All the things I was warned about Vermont — sharp climbs, precipitous cliffs, and muddy bogs — were more prominently featured in New Hampshire. I wanted to reflect this reality in the title: I almost went for “New Verhampmontshire”, but decided that the software pun would prove more readable.

However, one thing I’d like to call out is the return of hostels! You may have noticed their conspicuous absence since Pennsylvania. All the way through Massachusetts, there was no hiker-oriented lodging to be found. Thankfully, hostels are back and here to stay (they’ll be at all but one of my town stops from here on out). Because of how I chose to split up the posts, you’ll get to hear about two in this update.

Day 124: Sunday, June 23

Rutland VT, Inn at Long Trail

It rained gently overnight, meaning my soaked rain gear and tent made no progress drying. Sluggishly collecting my belongings and rolling up my tent during a break in the rain, I still had an hour until the bus arrived. As I mentioned last week, I camped in a field used for parking across the road from The Inn at Long Trail, with the bus stop situated in front of the Inn.

I began sloshing the few dozen yards across to the Inn, contemplating my course of action. The Inn is hiker-friendly, and I figured I could ask to stash my pack there while I ran into town. Though built far more like a ski lodge, offering exclusively private rooms and no bunks, it caters to hikers during its off-season. It’s hiker boxes were overflowing with trail mixes, bars, and baggies of cookies. Many hikers streamed in throughout the course of the day.

I inquired at the front desk, and the receptionist said they be more than happy to stash my pack in the wood shed while I was in-town. Knowing that a fourth consecutive day of rain was in the forecast, I decided to inquire about the price for a room. “If it’s less than a hundred, just do it” I promised myself. I was informed they had a special discount for through hikers: $80 for a room, plus breakfast in the morning. Deal. I made a mental note to be back for check-in at 2:00.

I had no issue catching the free shuttle into Rutland. I’d heard mixed things about the city: the common remark was that it used to be overrun with drugs, but has cleaned up over the last decade. As we pulled into the bus depot, the bright buildings, tidy streets, and frequent murals convinced me there wasn’t anything to worry about. I plodded over to the Catholic church. Dead tired from the week’s exertion, my mental prayer was disorganized and unfocused before and during mass. Nonetheless, I resolved to be joyful and thankful that, for yet another week, God had provided everything I needed. Just as the Eucharist gave me the strength to plow through, here again was this supreme gift to renew and sustain me for the miles ahead.

After purchasing my trail foods, I loitered at the supermarket to enjoy a potato salad and chocolate muffin for lunch. At 1:15, I was back on the bus to the Inn. After checking in and hauling my gear to the third floor, I spread out all my wet equipment in front of the fan to dry. I did my best to balance the rest of the day between relaxing and planning, including a long soak in the tub.

Day 125: Monday, June 24

Inn at Long Trail to Stony Brook Shelter – 10.0 miles

Several happenings kept today’s mileage on the shorter side. For one, I got a late start. I wanted to wrap up my schedule for the final week of the trail: navigating the myriad of camping restrictions in Baxter State Park, reading up on the resources in Millinocket, finding transportation to Bangor, and booking flights. Pausing my research only for breakfast, it wasn’t until mid-morning that I was packed up and ready to go. Then I had to backtrack almost a full mile along US 4 until I could resume progress on the trail.

Very soon, the path (which, if you’ll recall, has been more or less due north since Connecticut) took a sharp right turn. From here to New Hampshire, it’s due east. Not far after the turn, the Long Trail split off from the AT at the “Maine Junction”.

After just over an hour, I reached VT 100. Here, I diverted to follow the road about a half-mile into Killington (at this point, I’m headed compass south). Indeed, this means I spent the first half of the day making a spiral, traversing 4.8 miles to end up 0.9 from the Inn, where I started the day. The Inn is technically zoned as part of Killington, but it’s isolated from the handful of buildings that compose the town proper. So why did I go through all this trouble if I already finished my town chores?

The answer lies in the post office. After presenting my ID, the jovial postal worker handed over the package containing my new sleeping pad! Tossing the packaging and the defunct pad, I was so ready to get on with the day and power through to a good nights’s sleep. After stopping at the convenience store to plow through a deli sandwich, whoopee pie, and a bag of goldfish, that is…

Day 126: Tuesday, June 25

Stony Brook Shelter to Dimick Brook – 22.5 miles

Just a smattering of random sights throughout the day.

First, the trail maintainers decided to install a regular aluminum extension ladder against the face of an 8-foot cliff. Usually they construct wooden steps or bolt rebar rings into the rock, so this feature felt out of place and amusing to me.

Second, I found a modest network of tubing looped and strung across the trunks of several trees. I couldn’t find any devices connected by the tubing, nor reckon its purpose. Sometimes rope or tape is used to cordon off a patch for reforestation, but the tubing didn’t enclose an area. I saw this a few more times this week.

Third, the squirrels are far less timid around these parts. Some of them let me walk within 4 feet, entirely unconcerned with my presence. As I took my evening meal, one particular rodent was allured by the scent of peanut butter. He’d hop progressively closer, concealing himself among the leaves and sticks. When he noticed I was watching, he’d anxiously retreat to a nearby trunk until he couldn’t resist the smell again (about 0.05 seconds). Our little game went for a dozen rounds, without the would-be thief snagging any of my food.

Day 127: Wednesday, June 26

Dimick Brook to Etna-Hanover Center Road – 20.1 miles

Early in the day I met a section hiker named “Gecko”. As a science teacher, he uses his summers off to chip away at the AT. He’s accomplished everything from here to Front Royal, VA. We had a pleasant conversation for an hour or so until I resumed my usual, slightly faster pace.

The rest of the day was focused on reaching and enjoying the final two trail towns. I strode into Norwich, VT by the late afternoon, and headed on over to a hiker-friendly convenience store named “Dan and Wit’s”. They give away day-old sandwiches to through-hikers for free. When I inquired at the deli counter, the lady replied that instead of sandwiches, they had leftover donuts to offer. They were located in a tupperware at the back of the store, in the hardware section. I felt comically out of place among the shoppers. I imagined the situation from their perspective: just regular people going about their day, perhaps browsing for a certain size of screw or formula of adhesive, and then there’s this disheveled dude who desperately needs a shower using the toolbox displays as a picnic table. Yeah, I would usher my kids down a different aisle, too.

About to exit the premise, I recalled something. “I’m in Vermont, and I haven’t had any Ben and Jerry’s yet!” I actually cried aloud. Their freezer housed a fine selection of flavors, so I chose the one that best described my emotional and mental state: half baked. It was absurd, purchasing novelties directly after consuming two large donuts, but this was a special occasion. Besides, I hadn’t had lunch yet, so the calories would get used quickly. Thus, I strolled down the sidewalk and crossed into New Hampshire with a pint of ice cream in hand. It took just 30 minutes to reach the next Main Street.

Not to be outdone, Hanover offers several hiker discounts and giveaways. Free pastry here, 10% off there, etc. The pizzeria offers a free slice of a basic flavor for through-hikers, but it was slammed, so I moved on. Desiring protein, I settled on a steak burrito bowl. I sat passively in the restaurant for 45 minutes, not planning or writing on my phone, just savoring the meal. On my way out of town, I stopped by St. Denis Catholic Church. I knew there wouldn’t be daily mass (besides, I’d just eaten my late lunch), but I wanted to sit before the tabernacle for a few minutes.

At dusk, I maneuvered through the “Velvet Rocks”. These moss-covered cliffs were a serene and peaceful atmosphere, I only wish the dwindling light had been adequate for some photographs.

Day 128: Thursday, June 27

Etna-Hanover Center Road to South Jacob’s Brook – 21.5 miles

Today was an introduction to truly rugged mountains. Summits regularly began to tip 4,000 feet. More and more often, soil gave way to solid granite or quartzite stone. Some ascents now required scrambling over boulders or up sheets of rock.

If fact, I believe I cracked the case on why the Northeast has a reputation for mud. A particular sight cued me onto my theory. At one point there was a curved corridor of exposed rock, flanked on either side by an inch of mossy soil. It occurred to me that this pattern was most likely caused by erosion from footsteps. And then it hit me. These mountains are very old (not just in an absolute sense, but relative to other ranges like the Rockies), so perhaps any dirt that remains is just a thin veneer over solid rock. The stone, and especially granite, is far less permeable, often giving saturated soil no outflow through ground water. This makes sense when you look at the mud pits themselves. Often, tiny “islands” of rock poke above the surface, and trekking poles (usually) don’t sink more than a few inches into the muck, implying a hard substrate.

Day 129: Friday, June 28

South Jacob’s Brook to Hikers Welcome Hostel – 16.2 miles

The only notes from the trail pertain to animal sightings. Right at the end of lunch, I heard a twig snap to my left. I glimpsed a coyote jogging 20 yards away through the trees, pause to gaze at something in the middle distance, then turn around to trot home. I didn’t make any noise and the creature didn’t look at me, though he almost surely caught my scent. Whether my presence or something else turned him back, I’ll never know. What initially seemed odd is the timing. I always thought coyotes were most active at dusk and dawn, and would certainly avoid the heat of the day in summer. But then again, that comes from my experience in the suburbs of Ohio. Perhaps those times are when they are most comfortable approaching human habitations under the cover half-light, rather than their general activity as hunters.

Additionally, I was anxious to sight a new bird. I was really starting to fear that this would be the first week without encountering any new species. However, I caught an unfamiliar call around evening. Playing back a recording on my phone, the warbler perched close enough for very clear photographs. Gotcha!

It wasn’t quite dusk as I strolled up to Hikers Welcome Hostel. The main house was built in the 1800’s, but a newer two-story barn housed most of the bunks. There were at least a dozen other guests, many of whom I’d encounter again next week. I was especially amused by the mural of a moose-heron-whale hybrid on the side of the bathhouse.

Day 130: Saturday, June 29

Lincoln NH, Hikers Welcome Hostel to Jeffers Brook Shelter – 0.9 miles

The town slated for this weekend’s resupply, Lincoln NH, was a troublesome 45-minute drive away. However, I had family to help me out! My Aunt Bootsie and Uncle Dave from Massachusetts drove all the way up here to give me a lift into town and chat about my hike. It was a drizzly day, so we hung out indoors at The Moon Café and Bakery. We had a great time discussing the trail, music groups, and other stories until well into the afternoon. On top of all that, they brought me one of my most precious and elusive resupply items, Nido Dry Whole Milk, since I wouldn’t find it in the grocery store. Thanks again, Bootsie and Dave!

After a vigil mass and trip to the grocery store. One of the hostel workers drove me back to the trail from Lincoln. I hoisted my pack to the nearest shelter, wanting to have a small head start on the gnarly section to come…

On the Horizon

Ladies and gentlemen, they’re finally here. Tune in next time for our long-awaited encounter with the relentlessly daunting yet ridiculously beautiful… White Mountains of New Hampshire!

Pebbles

New Birds: Black-throated Green Warbler

Podcasts: Pints with Aquinas, hosted by Matt Fradd, I feel is best described as a Catholic variety show. His cast of colorful interviewees — ranging from personal acquaintances to bishops, cardinals, and other Catholic “celebrities” — share compelling stories, dive into intriguing topics, and usually spout some hot takes. Aside from the main interview episodes, a Dominican friar and Byzantine Rite nun each provide bite-size talks on the spiritual life. Whether it’s cheerful banter, current events, or heavy subjects, Pints offers a glimpse into the many interesting personalities of the modern Church and our society at large.

Audiobooks: The Case for Christ by Lee Strobel is an investigative journalist’s search for the down-to-earth, scholarly evidence for the Christian faith. Though far from touching all areas of apologetics, it covers the most crucial fundamentals with rigorous depth. A comprehensive examination of the rational underpinnings for faith that proves useful to anyone, skeptic or believer.

Songs in my Head: “Here Now (Madness) [By An Empty Tomb Just Beyond the City Walls] – Live” by Hillsong UNITED & Joel Houston, “Home” by Michael Bublé, “Roll With It” by Steve Winwood, and “Baby, I Love Your Way” by Big Mountain…

🎶 Oooh AT I love your way (most every day) 🎶,

Maxwell “Oatmeal” Stelmack