972.6 miles, 1,804,360 steps

The Shennys. Shenanigans National Park. The Sha-nay-nays. Whatever you want to call it, the second and final National Park is checked off. SNP contains 50% more of the trail’s length than GSMNP, the 101 miles afforded time to cook up plenty of those silly names. However, it is profoundly flatter and considered by many as the easiest stretch of the entire journey. I am happy to report a rebound from the blues of last week.

In addition to the gently rolling hills rarely touching 3.5k feet, a few other factors helped me rack up 138 miles in just 7 days. For starts, the patch on my sleeping pad is holding up. More efficient sleep kept mental fatigue to manageable levels. Additionally, the weather cooled down significantly, with the hottest days peaking in the mid-70s. Well conditioned legs, a honed-in diet, and reduced need for water provided my body everything it needed to pound out 24 miles day after day. But even with the ideal conditions, I could feel myself at my limit. The caloric demand and reduced time for sleep from hiking 12+ hours stretched my food supply and rest. I got through this week, but this pace is unsustainable long term and I won’t be so aggressive in the future.

Cooler temps slowed, but did not halt, spring’s advance. More fauna and flora appear every day. My app detected at least 25 different bird calls throughout the week, though I could only sight very few. Deer were abundant in the Park, at least a handful straying into view every day. But the heights are still untouched by the emergence of life. Foliage is notably absent above 3,000 feet. Spring’s in full swing in the valley, but winter clings to the peaks and ridges.

Day 64: Sunday, April 21

VA 56 to Harper’s Creek Shelter – 2.8 miles

On my walk to the church, I was caught up in a spirit of thankfulness. I realized that I hadn’t made an effort to recall and appreciate the compendium of blessings from this trip: natural splendor, spiritual consolations, lively companions, access to churches, and protection from injuries, to say the least.

With a long week ahead, I put in just a few miles to a shelter before evening. The site overlooked a picturesque creek. Just before I turned in, who else should show up but Pyro! He took some time off to hit a concert in DC, which explains how I leapfrogged him. We planned to make the same hostel by Saturday, giving us plenty of time to hike together. We gabbed and laughed for too long before drifting off to sleep.

Day 65: Monday, April 22

Harper’s Creek Shelter to Paul C. Wolfe Shelter – 22.2 miles

Since I tend to rise earlier than Pyro, I set off alone. Right away was the ascent up a mountain dubbed Three Ridges. The going was rigorous (see the pictures of the 60-degree rocky incline), but deeply rewarding. I could feel the renewed strength in my muscles, boosting my confidence and pulling me out of the spiritual desolation of last week.

Pyro caught up as I admired the vista. Resting our packs on the earth, we passed the time by casting pebbles at random targets, trees and boulders. We resumed, but not for long. On a ledge just ½ mile down, we bumped into Ringer. A through hiker in 2021 (or, as we say out here, part of the “Class of ‘21”), he was just on a day hike. His through-hike was recent enough that he was still familiar with all the major sections as we recounted our favorite trail stories. When we finally turned to go, he mentioned there was some trail magic down at Reid’s Gap.

Sure enough, he’d left a cooler there with sodas and beer. Though not one for Coke or IPAs, I was not left disappointed. I scooped the ice melt into my Nalgene, the chilled water providing all the refreshment I desired.

Day 66: Tuesday, April 23

Paul C. Wolfe Shelter to Blackrock Hut – 25.5 miles

After just a few miles, Pyro and I officially crossed into SNP. We noticed right away that SNP uses concrete pillars with stamped metallic bands and directional signs, rather than the typical grooved wooden signs. We couldn’t think of a reason for the choice, but the tiny letters were nearly illegible, even for my eagle eyes. Good luck at nighttime.

Atop Little Calf Mountain, just a little past some radio towers, stood a ring of painted tractor seats. We burst out laughing at these absurd chairs staked into the grass. What’s more, they were arranged in a semicircle around what I can only describe as a slanted coffee table, though the surface was too titled and much too far away to serve such purpose. It was green with the AT logo painted on top.

The spontaneity didn’t stop there. In the parking area for the mountain, we bumped into more trail magic. Twice in one week! “Coach” and “Dusty” just finished a small section hike and brought some goodies for any though hikers they might encounter. We took lunch at the spot, happy to have twinkies and oatmeal creme pies for dessert. Soda for Pyro, cooler water for me.

Unfortunately, things took a turn for the worse when my camp stove sputtered out. Silly me forgot to pay attention to my fuel level, which was now depleted. Pyro generously let me use his fuel canister. Thank God I had a hiking buddy to help me out of this situation.

Last light waned as I stumbled up to the hut (in SNP, “shelters” are day-use-only, while the same construction in a campground is a “hut”). Wandering in search of a tent site, two eyes close to the ground reflected the beam from my headlamp. My senses snapped alert as “coyote” registered in my brain. But when these orbs rose to a height possible only for a deer, I relaxed. False alarm.

The one remaining tent site was so rocky, I gave up pitching all together. I spread the ground sheet, set the mesh tent body on top, and stuffed the sleeping pad and bag inside to improvise a bivy sack. Though not weatherproof in the slightest, the setup is quick. Great for calm and dry nights, especially when it gets to the heat of summer.

Day 67: Wednesday, April 24

Blackrock Hut to Swift Run Gap – 24.8 miles

Just after lunch, Pyro and I found a partially used fuel canister atop one of the navigational concrete pillars. Thanks, Sparkplug! Receiving just the thing I needed, I knew God’s providence was at work here, on top of the other trail magic.

Now that I was no longer dependent on Pyro for fuel, we agreed to hike separately. His longer stride and athletic training quickly outpace me, especially up inclines. He prefers several long breaks during the day, while I tend to walk for longer stretches. We both have similar endurance levels on a per-day basis, but our hiking habits are not conducive to walking together the whole day. But we’d still bump into each other from time to time and make for the same campsites. For me, this hit the right balance of sharing the trail with a friend while delving into hours of blissful solitude.

Evening brought me to Hightop mountain. A viewpoint near the summit afforded an exquisite scene (see title picture). The not-quite setting sun pierced the clouds, gilding the rock ledge and lush valley with a golden sheen. While not the most impressive view I’ve encountered, the impeccable dusk lighting immediately secured a spot in my “highlight reel”.

A few steps beyond that lay a “buried treasure” of sorts. In March, a friend of mine came this way and left an ice cream receipt for me to track down using a few pictures and a GPS location (did you notice that random treasure chest icon on the GPS map?). I did manage to find the slip of paper… if you can call it “paper” after more than a month of exposure to the elements. Still, I was grateful for the exciting scavenger hunt and the reminder of a good friend.

Day 68: Thursday, April 25

Swift Run Gap to a spring near Skyland Stables – 24.0 miles

Today, I embarked into the world of J.R.R. Tolkien with a recording of The Fellowship of the Ring. I’ve always been most attached to the first installment of the trilogy, whose episodic nature most captures the unpredictable unfolding of an adventure. Masterful narration transported my steps into the Shire, Old Forest, and Barrow Downs of Middle Earth. The weather strangely cooperated with the narrative. For example, a damp chill descended during the encounter with the barrow wight, only to depart swiftly with the hobbits’ escape.

Day 69: Friday, April 26

A spring near Skyland Stables to Gravel Springs Hut – 24.9 miles

I felt the week’s toll acutely, most notably through hunger. Astounded at my need for a far-too-early lunch, I reviewed my smartwatch data. I was shocked to learn the last few days required 4,500 calories each, 500 above the rate my provisions could sustain. A section hiker passing by the shelter caught my glum demeanor and gifted me two bars. While they may not have put much a dent in the caloric deficit, this act of mercy warmed my heart.

Once again reaching the hut in the dark, a glimmering campfire illuminated the faces of a cluster of young adults. These friends had ventured into SNP to celebrate one of their birthdays, hauling with them large quantities of party foods in coolers. They kindly offered some chips and dip.

Day 70: Saturday, April 27

Gravel Springs Hut to Mountain Home B&B – 13.4 miles

The first truly rainy day since my break at VT. I am happy to report that my jacket, pants, and pack cover proved an excellent combo for warding off moisture. I now have full confidence in my rain system for the rest of the journey.

Around noon things cleared up. A surge of birdsong erupted, as if making up for the typical morning activity postponed by the inclement weather. I saw three new species all within the span of two hours!

Mountain Home B&B just got into the hiker hostel business, but they excel at hospitality. On top of the usual amenities, they offered copious free eats and drinks. The owners, “Anything” and “Possible”, explained that the local nursing home disburses extra foodstuffs to nearby food pantries and homeless shelters, in addition to their own establishment. Normally they have a selection of fine cheeses like Brie or Camembert to offer, but strangely not this week. They did have frozen pizzas for sale. Remarkably, I was unable to finish the whole pie in one sitting, happy to share a few slices with the other hikers chatting around the table. I’ll take that as confirmation that I’ve nailed down the right trail diet.

On the Horizon

Wandering through four states in 2 months is quite something, isn’t it? Well, what about touching the same number in one week? Perhaps, dare I say, even one day?

Pebbles

New birds: American Goldfinch, Black-and-white Warbler, Hooded Warbler, Brown Thrasher, Chipping Sparrow, Gray Catbird, American Redstart, White-breasted Nuthatch, Great Crested Flycatcher, and Red-eyed Vireo. I’ve been hearing that last one for a whole month now, very excited to finally spot it.

Interesting Hikers: Blue Man, who buys exclusively blue gear if at all possible.

Songs in my Head: “Don’t Worry be Happy” by Bobby McFerrin, “Enjoy It!” by Maurice Chevalier & Hayley Mills, “I am the Very Model of a Modern Major General” from The Pirates of Penzance, and, of course, “Oh Shenandoah”.

🎶Away, I’m bound away / Across to find my curry🎶,

Maxwell “Oatmeal” Stelmack